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Serving NE Ohio Since 1956 |
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ROOFING When deciding on a
contractor to do work on your home it is always
helpful to be able to understand their unique
language. The in depth analysis of terms that
follows provides some of the common terms
associated with home improvement work that you may
encounter when reviewing companies and
products. Ventilation-
Proper attic ventilation can lower the cost of
cooling your home by as much as 65%, prolong the
life of roofing materials, and prevent the
premature deterioration of attic-insulation
materials. In summer weather attic air can easily
super-heat to 140 degrees. The trapped air will
rise to fill the attic space and radiate heat
downward along the ceiling, walls, and joists. This
seriously adds to the burden of your air
conditioner, requiring it to work almost constantly
during summer weather. Super heated air will
actually scorch rafters and plywood, wilt
insulation, and cause shingles to cup and buckle.
NOTE: Proper ventilation will add as much as 10
years to the life of your roofing. Power attic
ventilators (attic fans)- Attic fans are
attached to the roof surface and are used to help
clear an attic space of super heated air. These
fans usually have a thermostat that is set to
switch on at 100 degrees and are set to switch off
at 85 degrees. Roof line louvered
vents (can style vents)- These small square
vents are on approximately 95% of houses that have
reached re-roofing stage. They are installed near
the roof peak to allow hot air to escape as it
rises. Ridge vent-
This ventilation option is installed on as much as
85% of new construction and is the only way to
properly ventilate a vaulted or cathedral ceiling.
Ridge vent is installed along the entire ridge to
provide the most evenly ventilated roof possible.
It tends to be much more pleasing to the eye than
traditional vents because all that is seen is about
3/4 of an inch under ridge cap shingles and the
traditional vents are removed and roofed over when
ridge vent is installed. Square- A
square is the most common term used to determine
the actual surface measurement of a roof. A square
is an area of 10'x 10' or 100 square feet = 1
Square. Ice
dams- Ice dam
formation occurs when snow and ice melts on the
middle and upper portions of the roof and as the
melt water travels towards edges of the roof it
freezes because there is less or no heat radiating
through the roof. This build-up of ice and snow is
called an ice dam and will actually, through the
repeated heating and cooling process, lift the
shingles causing water to leak into the house. As
you can see from this much of the problem of ice
dams can be solved with proper ventilation, but the
rest of the problem can be solved with a second
layer of protection called ice and water
shield. Ice and water
shield- Ice shield is a self adhesive
rubberized asphalt membrane that is applied to the
lowest 3 feet of the roof edges. The ice shield
seals around nails and will divert any water that
penetrates roofing material to run to the gutter
and not into the house or the eves. Ice and water
shield is also commonly applied to the roof deck
(plywood) along the entire length of valleys as a
second layer of protection should a leak occur
before the roof comes to age for new
roofing. Delamination of
Roof Decking- Separation of the plies in a wood
panel due to failure of the adhesive. Often caused
by excessive heat and moisture in the attic.
Plywood is made of thin sheets of wood veneer (or
plies) arranged in cross-laminated layers to form a
panel. OSB is made with rectangular-shaped wood
strands cross-oriented in layers, and is the most
popular alternative to plywood. Roof decking serves
a number of functions. It is a key element in the
barrier system that keeps out moisture; it serves
as anail base and support of roofing materials, it
connects and braces the individual roof trusses or
rafters; it provides a diaphragm that, in
combination with shear walls, stiffen the entire
house against lateral forces from wind and
earthquakes. If deterioration is widespread, the
building structure will be compromised. Roof
decking that cannot function well as a nail base
and support for roof finishes and as a brace to the
roof structure should be replaced. If the
deteriorated area is small, it may be able to be
patched without extensive re-decking, or treated
with a fungicide in the event it is caused by mold.
For the most part, however, deterioration, if it
exists, is likely to be widespread and may require
partial or complete removal of the decking and the
existing roof finish as well. The condition of the
roof decking can be assessed by visual and physical
means. Visual signs of deterioration include
obvious delamination or deterioration, the
existence of water stains, insect holes, dark
patches, mold spores and charring of the decking
and roof structure. Physical assessment can also
employ probes and soundings to detect the presence
of soft, crumbling, split, swollen or otherwise
degraded material. Drip edge-
Metal drip edge runs from the gutter line to the
peak on the gable ends of the roof. The purpose of
drip edge is to, primarily, divert water coming off
the roof away from the fascia. Additional
advantages are a few extra inches of protection
against wind driven rain and potential pests such
as carpenter ants and bees. Re-work chimney
flashing- To make necessary repairs on metal
flashing around chimney and re-caulk and/or replace
metal if required. Step flashing and
counter flashing- Step flashing is installed
where a portion of pitched roof meets a vertical
wall. Counter flashing is installed onto wall over
step flashing. NOTE: Counter flashing is not
required, in most cases, when siding is present on
wall. Roof pitch-
The steepness/rate of incline on a roof is
determined by calculating the rate of rise vs. rate
of run. Examples: 4/12 = 4 inches of
rise for every 12 inches of run (Approximately a 17
degree pitch) 12/12= 12 inches of
rise for every 12 inches of run (Exactly a 45
degree pitch) Aging factors of
roofing materials- Roofing material
deterioration can vary greatly depending on the
pitch. If a multi-pitched house has a section of
3/12 that needs to be replaced due to excessive
aging, chances are that the 10/12 section has many
years of protection left. This is true, even though
both sections had the same 25-year warranty
shingle. The lower the pitch, the faster the rate
of deterioration. You may find that your standard
25-year shingle lasts only 15 years on a 2/12 pitch
and the same shingle lasts 35 years on a 12/12
pitch. The other major factor in uneven aging is
southern and western exposure sides of the roof,
they will nearly break down more
quickly. Felt paper-
The standard underlayment used in shingle roofing
is asphalt saturated felt paper. Available in 15lb,
30lb, or 45lb ratings(the lb. rating defines the
number of pounds pre square) the most common weight
used is 15lb and is applied in about 80% of shingle
roofing, 30lb. will give you a small amount of
added leak protection and 45lb. is used mainly in
wood shake/shingle roofing. Although the felt paper
does provide temporary waterproofing while the roof
is in the transition stage between tear-off and
re-application of shingles its primary function is
to act as a vapor barrier between the wood roof
deck and the shingles. Without the felt layer, the
wood planking or plywood --dried by superheated
temperatures found in most attics-- will draw
moisture (including tar and oils from the asphalt)
from shingles. The result will be shingles that are
prematurely worn, cracked, brittle, as well as
stuck to the wood surface when removal is
attempted. 3-Tab
shingles vs. Architectural
shingles- Chances
are that your home currently has 3-tab shingles. As
the name describes the shingle configuration leaves
12" wide tabs exposed with 1/4" slot lines or rain
groves. Though definitely functional, the 3-tab
shingle has lost much of its popularity due to the
introduction of the architectural or dimensional
shingle. These shingles have actually been in
existence long enough for roofers to see them come
to maturity and need replacement, but their
popularity has really come to light in the last 10
years. The architectural shingle is modeled after
the look of cedar shake shingles without the fire
hazard, insect problems, rotting, and expense. 95%
of realtors will highly suggest architectural
shingles over 3-tab shingles on the basis of curb
appeal and re-sale of your home. Other advantages
of architectural shingles are; heavier weight and
thicker (reducing blow-offs), less potential for
curling, and they have a textured uneven look for a
clean appearance when applied over badly
deteriorated roofing. Asphalt (organic)
vs. Asphalt/Fiberglass blend shingles- The
choice of the composition of the shingles applied
to your home are basically broken down into to two
categories; Asphalt (organic) or Asphalt/fiberglass
blend shingles. Asphalt based or organic shingles,
although still popular, make up only about 10 to
15% of the shingles sold today. An organic shingle
is made up of layers of heavy roofing felt (made
from organic materials such as paper or wood chips)
that are saturated with asphalt. A thick coat of
asphalt is then added to the saturated felt. A
layer of ceramic granules or opaque-rock mineral
granules are then added for color and for weather
and sunlight resistance. Asphalt/fiberglass blend
shingles are manufactured in much the same way
except that a fiberglass sheet is used in place of
the felt. The advantage of asphalt/fiberglass
shingles are a lighter weight shingle coupled with
a longer limited warranty period and a greater fire
resistance due to the fiberglass content. The use
of fiberglass or organic shingles is a rather
controversial issue among roofers. Many of the
roofing companies that suggest and apply mainly
organic shingles seem to have been soured by the
early trial and error period in the development of
fiberglass shingles, and the fact that if applied
improperly during cold weather they are susceptible
to cracking. There was a time when the fiberglass
shingles being manufactured were not of the best
quality, but those days are long gone. The fact
that 85% of the shingles being manufactured today
contain at least some fiberglass content speaks for
itself. Tear-off vs. No
tear-off - Most local roofing codes allow a
maximum of two layers of shingles because of the
difficulty of chopping through several layers of
shingles if there is a fire. There is also the fact
that manufacturers will not guarantee their
products if shingles are used to reroof over more
than one worn layer of shingles. A tear-off does
give you the cleanest flattest look possible, and
upon occasion, on structurally unsound homes the
structure simply will not handle the weight. There
are cases when the shingles are too badly cupped
and curled or when large areas of wood replacement
is required that a tear-off is the only option.
Often times when a 3-tab shingle will not cleanly
cover a worn first layer, an architectural shingle
will. The rough texture of the architectural
shingle will often times provide the desired look
when a 3-tab shingle will not. Drainage- A system of
gutters and drainpipes that carry water away from
the foundation of a house. Drop Outlet- Formed
piece that serves as the hole from which the water
travels from the horizontal section of the gutter
to the downspout. Elbow- Pre-finished
angled piece for directing water flow. End Cap- Flat formed
piece that is placed at the end of a gutter
section. Fascia- A flat board
that runs horizontally along the eaves of a roof,
typically capping the ends of the roof rafters to
give the roof edge a more finished look and provide
a base for attaching gutters. Gutters- Horizontal
channels installed at the edge of a roof to carry
rainwater or melted snow away from the
house. Hanger- Flat strap
that is installed under the roofing material and
hold up the horizontal section of the
gutter Fascia gutter
hangers- Flat hangers that are nailed into the
house to hold the downspouts in place. Gutter roof straps-
Aluminum bands that are used to fasten gutters to
roof edge by hanging them off of the roof when the
fascia board is not flat or
non-existent. Inside box miter- A
corner piece of the horizontal section that is
deflected in. Outside box miter- A
corner piece of the horizontal section that is
deflected out. Leader- A pipe that
carries rainwater from the gutters to the ground,
sewers, or wells. Pitch- The angle at
which a horizontal section of gutter is tilted in
order to force water to flow toward a
downspout. Run- Length of a
horizontal section of gutter. Splashblock- Plastic
or concrete surface put under a downspout to direct
water away from the house Siding
Materials There are many types
of materials used to manufacture siding such as;
vinyl, aluminum, wood, cement-wood pulp
composition, slate and many more. Vinyl comprises
over 80% of the siding installed on residential
homes today. Advantages of vinyl
siding over aluminum Some of the
advantages of vinyl siding over aluminum are; Vinyl
siding doesn’t show scratches (solid color all
the way through). It is easily repaired if
necessary. It is doesn’t oxidize and fades
very little. It doesn’t dent or break (unless
maybe a lawnmower throws a rock). Vinyl siding has
a modern clean look with a high appeal over
aluminum that is desirable on today's real estate
market. Backerboard- A flat
material used on the face of the house to provide a
flat, nailable surface for siding
installation. Belly Band Board- The
trim detail, usually 1" x 12", installed to the
exterior to hide imperfections in framing between
floors. Although this board is commonly removed
during siding replacement, removal of this board
can reveal a bump or ridge that was hidden by the
board. Brake- A portable
tool for bending clean angles in a variety of thin
to medium gauge metals such as aluminum, steel and
copper. Buttlock- The bottom
edge of a siding or soffit panel, opposite the
nailing slots, which locks into the preceding
panel. Metal Cladding or
Capping- Custom formed metal that is bent to the
profile of the exterior trim providing a
maintenance free surface. This eliminates the need
for future painting. Drip Cap/Head
Flashing- A small flashing detail that diverts
water from entering behind an accessory item such
as trim, a window or siding. Channel- The area or
the accessory trim or corner post where the end of
the siding or soffit panel is inserted. Channels
also refer to the trim itself, and are named for
the letters of the alphabet they resemble (e.g.,
J-Channel, F-Channel, etc.). Course- A row of
panels, one panel wide, running the length of the
house from one side to the other, or in the case of
vertical siding, from top to bottom. Face Nailing- The
action of fastening directly into the "face" side
of the panel (instead of using the nail hem slot).
This practice is generally not used in siding
installation. Fascia Board- A board
attached to the ends of the rafters between the
roofing material and soffit overhang. Fascia cap is
the covering around the board. Finnish Trim- The
siding trim detail used to secure the last piece of
siding at the top of a wall using no exposed
fasteners. Flashing- A thin,
flat material, usually aluminum, positioned under
or behind J-channels, corner posts, windows, etc.,
to keep draining water from penetrating the
home. Freeze Board- The
trim detail, usually 1" x 6" , 8" , or 10",
installed horizontally below the soffit. Furring/Furring
Strip- A wooden or steel framing material, usually
1" x 3", used to provide an even nailing base. To
"fur" a surface means to apply these
strips. Insulation Board- A
semi-rigid foam board used to add insulation
R-value to a home without opening up the walls. The
insulation board also can add sound proofing
properties. This foam board is commonly available
in 1/4", 3/8', 1/2", 3/4" and 1"
thickness. J-Channel- Named for
its similarity in shape to the letter "J", this
channeling is installed at the edges of a wall to
hide the ends of the pieces of siding allowing for
expansion and contraction of the vinyl
product. Lap- To overlap the
ends of two siding panels or accessory pieces to
allow for expansion and contraction of the vinyl
product. Lug/Crimp- The raised
"ears" or tabs on a siding panel, created by a
snaplock punch, which can be used to lock a siding
panel into place when the nailing hem has been
removed. Miter- To make a
diagonal cut, beveled to a specific angle (usually
45 degrees). Sometimes miter cuts are made into an
overlapping siding or soffit panel surface to
provide a neater appearance. Mounting Blocks- A
color matched accessory mounting block used to act
as a stable base for the mounting of light fixtures
and other exterior items. Nailing Hem (or
Flange)- The section of siding or accessories where
the nailing slots are located. Nail Slot- Slot in
the nailing hem in which nails are to be driven
into the substrate. Plumb- A position or
measurement that is truly and exactly vertical (90
degrees from a level surface). Profile- A particular
design or style of a siding or soffit panel (e.g.,
Double 4", double 5" or dutchlap). Soffit- Material used
to enclose the horizontal underside of an eave,
cornice or overhang. Starter Strip- An
accessory applied directly to the surface of the
building and used to secure the first course of
siding to the home. "T" Channel- Named
for its similarity in shape to the letter "T", this
channeling is used to join two soffit panels
together. Vapor Barrier
(Tyvek)- A sheet membrane applied to the exterior
of the home before to application of siding. Tyvek
is by far the most popular for the simple fact that
Tyvek is one of the only products that is not pin
perforated but is a true micro weave. Example: You
could hold 5 gallons of water in a sheet of Tyvek
without so much as a drop bleeding through and then
take the same piece of Tyvek and place it over the
spout of a boiling teapot and the steam would pass
right through! In simpler terms, water, in a mass
volume form, will not pass through Tyvek, but on a
molecular level, as vapor, it easily passes
through. Weep Holes- Openings
cut into siding or accessories to allow water
runoff. Astragal -The center
member of a double door, which is attached to the
fixed or inactive door panel. Awning window -A
window unit in which the bottom of the sash swings
outward. Bay window -A
composite of three windows, usually made up of a
large center unit and two flanking units at 30- or
45-degree angles to the wall. Bow window -A
composite of four or more window units in a radial
or bow formation. Brickmold -A type of
external casing which frames windows and
doors. Casement window -A
window unit in which the single sash cranks
outward, to the right or left. Casing -Molding of
various widths, thickness and shapes applied to the
framework of window and door units. Check rail -On a
double-hung window, the bottom rail of the upper
sash and the upper rail of the lower sash, where
the lock is mounted. Circlehead -A generic
term referring to any of a variety of window units
with one or more curved frame members, often used
over another window or door opening. Cladding-An aluminum
material locked to the outside faces of many window
products and exterior trim to provide a durable,
low-maintenance exterior surface. Clerestory window -A
venting or fixed window above other windows or
doors on an upper outside wall of a
room. Cottage double-hung
-A double-hung window in which the upper sash is
shorter than the lower sash. Dormer -A space which
protrudes from the roof of a house, usually
including one or more windows. Double-hung window -A
window unit that has two operable sashes which move
vertically in the frame. Drip cap-A molding
placed on the top of the head brickmold or casing
of a window frame that diverts water from entering
the window from the top. This trim bridges the gap
between the window trim detail and the siding
material.. Dual durometer -A
material that has two or more levels of
flexibility. An example is the weatherstripping
used between the frame and sash of a casement
window. Extrusion -A form
produced by forcing material through a die. Window
frames are clad with extruded aluminum. Fenestration -An
architectural term referring to the arrangement of
windows in a wall. From the Latin word, "fenestra,"
meaning window. Fixed -Non-venting or
non-operable. Flashing -A thin
strip of metal or synthetic material that diverts
water away from a window or skylight. Foam Spacer -Foam
material placed in the airspace of the insulating
glass in Pella Architect Series® windows to
enhance the appearance and improve the performance
of the window. Frame -The enclosure
in which window sash or door panels are
mounted. French hinged door
-Hinged door(s) which have wider panel members
around the glass. French sliding door
-A sliding door which has wider panel members
around the glass, giving the appearance of a French
hinged door. Glazing -Glass in a
window or door; the act or process of fitting with
glass. Glazing stop -The
part of the sash or door panel which holds the
glass in place. Grille -A term
referring to windowpane dividers or muntins,
usually a type of assembly which may be detached
for cleaning. Head -The main
horizontal member forming the top of the window or
door frame. Header -A horizontal
framing member placed over the rough opening of a
window to prevent the weight of wall or roof from
resting on the window frame. Hopper -A window unit
in which the top of the sash swings
inward. Insulating glass (IG)
-A combination of two or more panes of glass with a
hermetically sealed air space between the panes of
glass. This space may or may not be filled with an
inert gas, such as argon. Integral Light
TechnologyTM -Patented technology used in Pella
Architect Series® products in which foam
spacers are inserted between the panes of
insulating glass. Jamb -The main
vertical members forming the sides of a window or
door frame. Jamb liner -In a
modern double-hung window, the track installed
inside the jambs on which the window sashes
slide. Knocked down (KD)
-Unassembled window or door unit. Low-E glass -Low-E is
a glass coating comprised of microscopic metal
particles that lessens the transmition of light
into the dwelling thus resulting in a cooler
interior temperature. Low-E glass also results in
less fading of items on the interior due to less
sunlight transmition. Masonry opening -The
space in a masonry wall left open for windows or
door. Mortise -A slot or
rectangular cavity cut into a piece of wood to
receive another part. Mortise-and-tenon -A
strong wood joint made by fitting together a
mortise in one board and a matching projecting
member (tenon) in the other. Used as a corner joint
in Pella sashes. Mullion -A wood or
metal part used to structurally join two window or
door units. Muntin -Applies to
any short or light bar, either vertical or
horizontal, used to separate glass in a sash into
multiple lights. Also called a windowpane divider
or a grille. Muntin Bar -Any small
bar that divides a windows glass. Also called a
grille or windowpane divider. Oriel style window-A
double hung window configuration that consists of a
lower sash that comprises 60% of the window
height. Palladian window -A
large, arch-top -Window flanked by smaller windows
on each side. Panel -Usually refers
to the separate panel or panels in a door
frame. Parting stop -In a
double-hung window, a strip of wood applied to the
jamb to separate the sash. Pleated shade -A
shade of folded fabric which can be installed like
regular shades or between the panes of glass of a
Pella Designer Series® window. Rail -The top and
bottom horizontal members of the framework of a
window sash. Replacement
window/New window -A replacement window is one that
disturbs the interior trim and exterior siding very
little because the unit is installed in the frame
of the old window. Only the sashes and window
tracks are removed but not the frame. A new window
is one that is inserted into the framed opening as
did the original window. This application often
requires extensive siding and trim
work/replacement. Rough opening -The
framed opening in a wall into which a window or
door unit is to be installed. R-Value -Resistance
to thermal transfer or heat flow. Higher R-value
numbers indicate greater insulating
value. Pane -A framed sheet
of glass within a window. Sash -A single
assembly of stiles and rails made into a frame for
holding glass. Sash cord -In
double-hung windows, the rope or chain which
attaches the sash to the counter
balance. Sash lift -A
protruding handle screwed to the inside bottom rail
of the lower sash on a double-hung window.
Available on all Pella double-hung
windows. Sash weights -In
older double-hung windows, the concealed cast-iron
weights which are used to counterbalance the
sash. Sidelights -Narrow
fixed units mulled or joined to door units to give
a more open appearance. Sill -The main
horizontal member forming the bottom of the frame
of a window or door. Single glazing -Use
of single panes of glass in a window. Not as
energy-efficient as double glazing. Single-hung -A
double-hung type of window in which the top sash is
fixed or inoperable. Slimshade® blinds
-On Pella Designer Series® windows, a
narrow-slat venetian blind positioned between the
exterior glass and the interior double glazing
panel. Stile -The main
vertical members of the framework of a
sash. Stool -An interior
trim piece on a window which extends the sill and
acts as a narrow shelf. Stop -A molding used
to hold, position or separate window
parts. Tempered glass -Glass
manufactured to withstand greater than normal
forces on its surface. When it breaks, it shatters
into small pieces to reduce hazard. Tenon -A rectangular
projection cut out of a piece of wood for insertion
into a mortise. Thermal break -The
addition of a thermal insulating material between
two thermally conductive materials. Thermopane glass -A
glass configuration comprised of two or three panes
of glass with a sealed air space between the panes
of glass slowing the transmission of temperature
between the living space and the exterior of the
home. Tilting sash -A
popular modern window feature that allows the sash
to be tilted in for easy access for cleaning
purposes. Transom -A small
window that fits over the top of a door or window,
primarily for additional light and aesthetic
value. U-value -Rate of heat
flow-value through the complete heat barrier, from
room air to outside air. The lower the U-value, the
better the insulating value. Unison lock -A
casement locking system which secures the window at
two locking points by operation of one handle.
Standard on all but the shortest Pella casement
windows. Vent Unit -A window
or door unit that opens or operates. Vinyl -A plastic
material used by many window manufacturers (not
Pella) for cladding or entire window
units. Weatherstripping -A
material or device used to seal the openings, gaps
or cracks of venting window and door units to
prevent water and air infiltration. Windload -Force
exerted on a surface by moving air. |
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