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When deciding on a contractor to do work on your home it is always helpful to be able to understand their unique language. The in depth analysis of terms that follows provides some of the common terms associated with home improvement work that you may encounter when reviewing companies and products.
Ventilation- Proper attic ventilation can lower the cost of cooling your home by as much as 65%, prolong the life of roofing materials, and prevent the premature deterioration of attic-insulation materials. In summer weather attic air can easily super-heat to 140 degrees. The trapped air will rise to fill the attic space and radiate heat downward along the ceiling, walls, and joists. This seriously adds to the burden of your air conditioner, requiring it to work almost constantly during summer weather. Super heated air will actually scorch rafters and plywood, wilt insulation, and cause shingles to cup and buckle. NOTE: Proper ventilation will add as much as 10 years to the life of your roofing.
Power attic ventilators (attic fans)- Attic fans are attached to the roof surface and are used to help clear an attic space of super heated air. These fans usually have a thermostat that is set to switch on at 100 degrees and are set to switch off at 85 degrees.
Roof line louvered vents (can style vents)- These small square vents are on approximately 95% of houses that have reached re-roofing stage. They are installed near the roof peak to allow hot air to escape as it rises.
Ridge vent- This ventilation option is installed on as much as 85% of new construction and is the only way to properly ventilate a vaulted or cathedral ceiling. Ridge vent is installed along the entire ridge to provide the most evenly ventilated roof possible. It tends to be much more pleasing to the eye than traditional vents because all that is seen is about 3/4 of an inch under ridge cap shingles and the traditional vents are removed and roofed over when ridge vent is installed.
Square- A square is the most common term used to determine the actual surface measurement of a roof. A square is an area of 10'x 10' or 100 square feet = 1 Square.
Ice dams- Ice dam formation occurs when snow and ice melts on the middle and upper portions of the roof and as the melt water travels towards edges of the roof it freezes because there is less or no heat radiating through the roof. This build-up of ice and snow is called an ice dam and will actually, through the repeated heating and cooling process, lift the shingles causing water to leak into the house. As you can see from this much of the problem of ice dams can be solved with proper ventilation, but the rest of the problem can be solved with a second layer of protection called ice and water shield.
Ice and water shield- Ice shield is a self adhesive rubberized asphalt membrane that is applied to the lowest 3 feet of the roof edges. The ice shield seals around nails and will divert any water that penetrates roofing material to run to the gutter and not into the house or the eves. Ice and water shield is also commonly applied to the roof deck (plywood) along the entire length of valleys as a second layer of protection should a leak occur before the roof comes to age for new roofing.
Delamination of Roof Decking- Separation of the plies in a wood panel due to failure of the adhesive. Often caused by excessive heat and moisture in the attic. Plywood is made of thin sheets of wood veneer (or plies) arranged in cross-laminated layers to form a panel. OSB is made with rectangular-shaped wood strands cross-oriented in layers, and is the most popular alternative to plywood. Roof decking serves a number of functions. It is a key element in the barrier system that keeps out moisture; it serves as anail base and support of roofing materials, it connects and braces the individual roof trusses or rafters; it provides a diaphragm that, in combination with shear walls, stiffen the entire house against lateral forces from wind and earthquakes. If deterioration is widespread, the building structure will be compromised. Roof decking that cannot function well as a nail base and support for roof finishes and as a brace to the roof structure should be replaced. If the deteriorated area is small, it may be able to be patched without extensive re-decking, or treated with a fungicide in the event it is caused by mold. For the most part, however, deterioration, if it exists, is likely to be widespread and may require partial or complete removal of the decking and the existing roof finish as well. The condition of the roof decking can be assessed by visual and physical means. Visual signs of deterioration include obvious delamination or deterioration, the existence of water stains, insect holes, dark patches, mold spores and charring of the decking and roof structure. Physical assessment can also employ probes and soundings to detect the presence of soft, crumbling, split, swollen or otherwise degraded material.
Drip edge- Metal drip edge runs from the gutter line to the peak on the gable ends of the roof. The purpose of drip edge is to, primarily, divert water coming off the roof away from the fascia. Additional advantages are a few extra inches of protection against wind driven rain and potential pests such as carpenter ants and bees.
Re-work chimney flashing- To make necessary repairs on metal flashing around chimney and re-caulk and/or replace metal if required.
Step flashing and counter flashing- Step flashing is installed where a portion of pitched roof meets a vertical wall. Counter flashing is installed onto wall over step flashing. NOTE: Counter flashing is not required, in most cases, when siding is present on wall.
Roof pitch- The steepness/rate of incline on a roof is determined by calculating the rate of rise vs. rate of run.
Examples:
4/12 = 4 inches of rise for every 12 inches of run (Approximately a 17 degree pitch)
12/12= 12 inches of rise for every 12 inches of run (Exactly a 45 degree pitch)
Aging factors of roofing materials- Roofing material deterioration can vary greatly depending on the pitch. If a multi-pitched house has a section of 3/12 that needs to be replaced due to excessive aging, chances are that the 10/12 section has many years of protection left. This is true, even though both sections had the same 25-year warranty shingle. The lower the pitch, the faster the rate of deterioration. You may find that your standard 25-year shingle lasts only 15 years on a 2/12 pitch and the same shingle lasts 35 years on a 12/12 pitch. The other major factor in uneven aging is southern and western exposure sides of the roof, they will nearly break down more quickly.
Felt paper- The standard underlayment used in shingle roofing is asphalt saturated felt paper. Available in 15lb, 30lb, or 45lb ratings(the lb. rating defines the number of pounds pre square) the most common weight used is 15lb and is applied in about 80% of shingle roofing, 30lb. will give you a small amount of added leak protection and 45lb. is used mainly in wood shake/shingle roofing. Although the felt paper does provide temporary waterproofing while the roof is in the transition stage between tear-off and re-application of shingles its primary function is to act as a vapor barrier between the wood roof deck and the shingles. Without the felt layer, the wood planking or plywood --dried by superheated temperatures found in most attics-- will draw moisture (including tar and oils from the asphalt) from shingles. The result will be shingles that are prematurely worn, cracked, brittle, as well as stuck to the wood surface when removal is attempted.
3-Tab shingles vs. Architectural shingles- Chances are that your home currently has 3-tab shingles. As the name describes the shingle configuration leaves 12" wide tabs exposed with 1/4" slot lines or rain groves. Though definitely functional, the 3-tab shingle has lost much of its popularity due to the introduction of the architectural or dimensional shingle. These shingles have actually been in existence long enough for roofers to see them come to maturity and need replacement, but their popularity has really come to light in the last 10 years. The architectural shingle is modeled after the look of cedar shake shingles without the fire hazard, insect problems, rotting, and expense. 95% of realtors will highly suggest architectural shingles over 3-tab shingles on the basis of curb appeal and re-sale of your home. Other advantages of architectural shingles are; heavier weight and thicker (reducing blow-offs), less potential for curling, and they have a textured uneven look for a clean appearance when applied over badly deteriorated roofing.
Asphalt (organic) vs. Asphalt/Fiberglass blend shingles- The choice of the composition of the shingles applied to your home are basically broken down into to two categories; Asphalt (organic) or Asphalt/fiberglass blend shingles. Asphalt based or organic shingles, although still popular, make up only about 10 to 15% of the shingles sold today. An organic shingle is made up of layers of heavy roofing felt (made from organic materials such as paper or wood chips) that are saturated with asphalt. A thick coat of asphalt is then added to the saturated felt. A layer of ceramic granules or opaque-rock mineral granules are then added for color and for weather and sunlight resistance. Asphalt/fiberglass blend shingles are manufactured in much the same way except that a fiberglass sheet is used in place of the felt. The advantage of asphalt/fiberglass shingles are a lighter weight shingle coupled with a longer limited warranty period and a greater fire resistance due to the fiberglass content. The use of fiberglass or organic shingles is a rather controversial issue among roofers. Many of the roofing companies that suggest and apply mainly organic shingles seem to have been soured by the early trial and error period in the development of fiberglass shingles, and the fact that if applied improperly during cold weather they are susceptible to cracking. There was a time when the fiberglass shingles being manufactured were not of the best quality, but those days are long gone. The fact that 85% of the shingles being manufactured today contain at least some fiberglass content speaks for itself.
Tear-off vs. No tear-off - Most local roofing codes allow a maximum of two layers of shingles because of the difficulty of chopping through several layers of shingles if there is a fire. There is also the fact that manufacturers will not guarantee their products if shingles are used to reroof over more than one worn layer of shingles. A tear-off does give you the cleanest flattest look possible, and upon occasion, on structurally unsound homes the structure simply will not handle the weight. There are cases when the shingles are too badly cupped and curled or when large areas of wood replacement is required that a tear-off is the only option. Often times when a 3-tab shingle will not cleanly cover a worn first layer, an architectural shingle will. The rough texture of the architectural shingle will often times provide the desired look when a 3-tab shingle will not.
Drainage- A system of gutters and drainpipes that carry water away from the foundation of a house.
Drop Outlet- Formed piece that serves as the hole from which the water travels from the horizontal section of the gutter to the downspout.
Elbow- Pre-finished angled piece for directing water flow.
End Cap- Flat formed piece that is placed at the end of a gutter section.
Fascia- A flat board that runs horizontally along the eaves of a roof, typically capping the ends of the roof rafters to give the roof edge a more finished look and provide a base for attaching gutters.
Gutters- Horizontal channels installed at the edge of a roof to carry rainwater or melted snow away from the house.
Hanger- Flat strap that is installed under the roofing material and hold up the horizontal section of the gutter
Fascia gutter hangers- Flat hangers that are nailed into the house to hold the downspouts in place.
Gutter roof straps- Aluminum bands that are used to fasten gutters to roof edge by hanging them off of the roof when the fascia board is not flat or non-existent.
Inside box miter- A corner piece of the horizontal section that is deflected in.
Outside box miter- A corner piece of the horizontal section that is deflected out.
Leader- A pipe that carries rainwater from the gutters to the ground, sewers, or wells.
Pitch- The angle at which a horizontal section of gutter is tilted in order to force water to flow toward a downspout.
Run- Length of a horizontal section of gutter.
Splashblock- Plastic or concrete surface put under a downspout to direct water away from the house
Siding Materials
There are many types of materials used to manufacture siding such as; vinyl, aluminum, wood, cement-wood pulp composition, slate and many more. Vinyl comprises over 80% of the siding installed on residential homes today.
Advantages of vinyl siding over aluminum
Some of the advantages of vinyl siding over aluminum are; Vinyl siding doesn’t show scratches (solid color all the way through). It is easily repaired if necessary. It is doesn’t oxidize and fades very little. It doesn’t dent or break (unless maybe a lawnmower throws a rock). Vinyl siding has a modern clean look with a high appeal over aluminum that is desirable on today's real estate market.
Backerboard- A flat material used on the face of the house to provide a flat, nailable surface for siding installation.
Belly Band Board- The trim detail, usually 1" x 12", installed to the exterior to hide imperfections in framing between floors. Although this board is commonly removed during siding replacement, removal of this board can reveal a bump or ridge that was hidden by the board.
Brake- A portable tool for bending clean angles in a variety of thin to medium gauge metals such as aluminum, steel and copper.
Buttlock- The bottom edge of a siding or soffit panel, opposite the nailing slots, which locks into the preceding panel.
Metal Cladding or Capping- Custom formed metal that is bent to the profile of the exterior trim providing a maintenance free surface. This eliminates the need for future painting.
Drip Cap/Head Flashing- A small flashing detail that diverts water from entering behind an accessory item such as trim, a window or siding.
Channel- The area or the accessory trim or corner post where the end of the siding or soffit panel is inserted. Channels also refer to the trim itself, and are named for the letters of the alphabet they resemble (e.g., J-Channel, F-Channel, etc.).
Course- A row of panels, one panel wide, running the length of the house from one side to the other, or in the case of vertical siding, from top to bottom.
Face Nailing- The action of fastening directly into the "face" side of the panel (instead of using the nail hem slot). This practice is generally not used in siding installation.
Fascia Board- A board attached to the ends of the rafters between the roofing material and soffit overhang. Fascia cap is the covering around the board.
Finnish Trim- The siding trim detail used to secure the last piece of siding at the top of a wall using no exposed fasteners.
Flashing- A thin, flat material, usually aluminum, positioned under or behind J-channels, corner posts, windows, etc., to keep draining water from penetrating the home.
Freeze Board- The trim detail, usually 1" x 6" , 8" , or 10", installed horizontally below the soffit.
Furring/Furring Strip- A wooden or steel framing material, usually 1" x 3", used to provide an even nailing base. To "fur" a surface means to apply these strips.
Insulation Board- A semi-rigid foam board used to add insulation R-value to a home without opening up the walls. The insulation board also can add sound proofing properties. This foam board is commonly available in 1/4", 3/8', 1/2", 3/4" and 1" thickness.
J-Channel- Named for its similarity in shape to the letter "J", this channeling is installed at the edges of a wall to hide the ends of the pieces of siding allowing for expansion and contraction of the vinyl product.
Lap- To overlap the ends of two siding panels or accessory pieces to allow for expansion and contraction of the vinyl product.
Lug/Crimp- The raised "ears" or tabs on a siding panel, created by a snaplock punch, which can be used to lock a siding panel into place when the nailing hem has been removed.
Miter- To make a diagonal cut, beveled to a specific angle (usually 45 degrees). Sometimes miter cuts are made into an overlapping siding or soffit panel surface to provide a neater appearance.
Mounting Blocks- A color matched accessory mounting block used to act as a stable base for the mounting of light fixtures and other exterior items.
Nailing Hem (or Flange)- The section of siding or accessories where the nailing slots are located.
Nail Slot- Slot in the nailing hem in which nails are to be driven into the substrate.
Plumb- A position or measurement that is truly and exactly vertical (90 degrees from a level surface).
Profile- A particular design or style of a siding or soffit panel (e.g., Double 4", double 5" or dutchlap).
Soffit- Material used to enclose the horizontal underside of an eave, cornice or overhang.
Starter Strip- An accessory applied directly to the surface of the building and used to secure the first course of siding to the home.
"T" Channel- Named for its similarity in shape to the letter "T", this channeling is used to join two soffit panels together.
Vapor Barrier (Tyvek)- A sheet membrane applied to the exterior of the home before to application of siding. Tyvek is by far the most popular for the simple fact that Tyvek is one of the only products that is not pin perforated but is a true micro weave. Example: You could hold 5 gallons of water in a sheet of Tyvek without so much as a drop bleeding through and then take the same piece of Tyvek and place it over the spout of a boiling teapot and the steam would pass right through! In simpler terms, water, in a mass volume form, will not pass through Tyvek, but on a molecular level, as vapor, it easily passes through.
Weep Holes- Openings cut into siding or accessories to allow water runoff.
Astragal -The center member of a double door, which is attached to the fixed or inactive door panel.
Awning window -A window unit in which the bottom of the sash swings outward.
Bay window -A composite of three windows, usually made up of a large center unit and two flanking units at 30- or 45-degree angles to the wall.
Bow window -A composite of four or more window units in a radial or bow formation.
Brickmold -A type of external casing which frames windows and doors.
Casement window -A window unit in which the single sash cranks outward, to the right or left.
Casing -Molding of various widths, thickness and shapes applied to the framework of window and door units.
Check rail -On a double-hung window, the bottom rail of the upper sash and the upper rail of the lower sash, where the lock is mounted.
Circlehead -A generic term referring to any of a variety of window units with one or more curved frame members, often used over another window or door opening.
Cladding-An aluminum material locked to the outside faces of many window products and exterior trim to provide a durable, low-maintenance exterior surface.
Clerestory window -A venting or fixed window above other windows or doors on an upper outside wall of a room.
Cottage double-hung -A double-hung window in which the upper sash is shorter than the lower sash.
Dormer -A space which protrudes from the roof of a house, usually including one or more windows.
Double-hung window -A window unit that has two operable sashes which move vertically in the frame.
Drip cap-A molding placed on the top of the head brickmold or casing of a window frame that diverts water from entering the window from the top. This trim bridges the gap between the window trim detail and the siding material..
Dual durometer -A material that has two or more levels of flexibility. An example is the weatherstripping used between the frame and sash of a casement window.
Extrusion -A form produced by forcing material through a die. Window frames are clad with extruded aluminum.
Fenestration -An architectural term referring to the arrangement of windows in a wall. From the Latin word, "fenestra," meaning window.
Fixed -Non-venting or non-operable.
Flashing -A thin strip of metal or synthetic material that diverts water away from a window or skylight.
Foam Spacer -Foam material placed in the airspace of the insulating glass in Pella Architect Series® windows to enhance the appearance and improve the performance of the window.
Frame -The enclosure in which window sash or door panels are mounted.
French hinged door -Hinged door(s) which have wider panel members around the glass.
French sliding door -A sliding door which has wider panel members around the glass, giving the appearance of a French hinged door.
Glazing -Glass in a window or door; the act or process of fitting with glass.
Glazing stop -The part of the sash or door panel which holds the glass in place.
Grille -A term referring to windowpane dividers or muntins, usually a type of assembly which may be detached for cleaning.
Head -The main horizontal member forming the top of the window or door frame.
Header -A horizontal framing member placed over the rough opening of a window to prevent the weight of wall or roof from resting on the window frame.
Hopper -A window unit in which the top of the sash swings inward.
Insulating glass (IG) -A combination of two or more panes of glass with a hermetically sealed air space between the panes of glass. This space may or may not be filled with an inert gas, such as argon.
Integral Light TechnologyTM -Patented technology used in Pella Architect Series® products in which foam spacers are inserted between the panes of insulating glass.
Jamb -The main vertical members forming the sides of a window or door frame.
Jamb liner -In a modern double-hung window, the track installed inside the jambs on which the window sashes slide.
Knocked down (KD) -Unassembled window or door unit.
Low-E glass -Low-E is a glass coating comprised of microscopic metal particles that lessens the transmition of light into the dwelling thus resulting in a cooler interior temperature. Low-E glass also results in less fading of items on the interior due to less sunlight transmition.
Masonry opening -The space in a masonry wall left open for windows or door.
Mortise -A slot or rectangular cavity cut into a piece of wood to receive another part.
Mortise-and-tenon -A strong wood joint made by fitting together a mortise in one board and a matching projecting member (tenon) in the other. Used as a corner joint in Pella sashes.
Mullion -A wood or metal part used to structurally join two window or door units.
Muntin -Applies to any short or light bar, either vertical or horizontal, used to separate glass in a sash into multiple lights. Also called a windowpane divider or a grille.
Muntin Bar -Any small bar that divides a windows glass. Also called a grille or windowpane divider.
Oriel style window-A double hung window configuration that consists of a lower sash that comprises 60% of the window height.
Palladian window -A large, arch-top -Window flanked by smaller windows on each side.
Panel -Usually refers to the separate panel or panels in a door frame.
Parting stop -In a double-hung window, a strip of wood applied to the jamb to separate the sash.
Pleated shade -A shade of folded fabric which can be installed like regular shades or between the panes of glass of a Pella Designer Series® window.
Rail -The top and bottom horizontal members of the framework of a window sash.
Replacement window/New window -A replacement window is one that disturbs the interior trim and exterior siding very little because the unit is installed in the frame of the old window. Only the sashes and window tracks are removed but not the frame. A new window is one that is inserted into the framed opening as did the original window. This application often requires extensive siding and trim work/replacement.
Rough opening -The framed opening in a wall into which a window or door unit is to be installed.
R-Value -Resistance to thermal transfer or heat flow. Higher R-value numbers indicate greater insulating value.
Pane -A framed sheet of glass within a window.
Sash -A single assembly of stiles and rails made into a frame for holding glass.
Sash cord -In double-hung windows, the rope or chain which attaches the sash to the counter balance.
Sash lift -A protruding handle screwed to the inside bottom rail of the lower sash on a double-hung window. Available on all Pella double-hung windows.
Sash weights -In older double-hung windows, the concealed cast-iron weights which are used to counterbalance the sash.
Sidelights -Narrow fixed units mulled or joined to door units to give a more open appearance.
Sill -The main horizontal member forming the bottom of the frame of a window or door.
Single glazing -Use of single panes of glass in a window. Not as energy-efficient as double glazing.
Single-hung -A double-hung type of window in which the top sash is fixed or inoperable.
Slimshade® blinds -On Pella Designer Series® windows, a narrow-slat venetian blind positioned between the exterior glass and the interior double glazing panel.
Stile -The main vertical members of the framework of a sash.
Stool -An interior trim piece on a window which extends the sill and acts as a narrow shelf.
Stop -A molding used to hold, position or separate window parts.
Tempered glass -Glass manufactured to withstand greater than normal forces on its surface. When it breaks, it shatters into small pieces to reduce hazard.
Tenon -A rectangular projection cut out of a piece of wood for insertion into a mortise.
Thermal break -The addition of a thermal insulating material between two thermally conductive materials.
Thermopane glass -A glass configuration comprised of two or three panes of glass with a sealed air space between the panes of glass slowing the transmission of temperature between the living space and the exterior of the home.
Tilting sash -A popular modern window feature that allows the sash to be tilted in for easy access for cleaning purposes.
Transom -A small window that fits over the top of a door or window, primarily for additional light and aesthetic value.
U-value -Rate of heat flow-value through the complete heat barrier, from room air to outside air. The lower the U-value, the better the insulating value.
Unison lock -A casement locking system which secures the window at two locking points by operation of one handle. Standard on all but the shortest Pella casement windows.
Vent Unit -A window or door unit that opens or operates.
Vinyl -A plastic material used by many window manufacturers (not Pella) for cladding or entire window units.
Weatherstripping -A material or device used to seal the openings, gaps or cracks of venting window and door units to prevent water and air infiltration.
Windload -Force exerted on a surface by moving air.
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